There are 59 permitted float slots on the Smith River below White Sulphur Springs, granted by lottery. Last year over 10,000 people applied.
If you get a permit, you’ll spend 4–5 days floating 59 miles through a remote canyon, camping on gravel bars, catching trout on a river that sees almost no pressure.
The lottery is in February. The waiting list people email me about every January asks if there’s any way to skip it. There isn’t. But knowing the Smith River exists — and knowing White Sulphur Springs is where you launch — makes every subsequent conversation about central Montana make more sense.
TL;DR
- White Sulphur Springs (~900) is the county seat of Meagher County, sitting in the Smith River Valley at the intersection of several mountain ranges.
- Home to Spa Hot Springs Motel — natural mineral hot springs with outdoor and indoor pools, open year-round, daily drained and refilled (no chemicals).
- The Smith River below town is one of Montana’s most coveted float experiences — a lottery-only permit system limits access, making it extraordinarily pristine.
- Showdown Ski Area (35 miles north) is Montana’s oldest operating ski area (since 1936), affordable and uncrowded.
- The Kings Hill Scenic Byway passes through the Little Belt Mountains above town.
- Best for: hot spring travelers, Smith River lottery winners, budget skiers, Red Ants Pants Festival (July), and central Montana road trippers.
White Sulphur Springs at a Glance
| Population (2020) | ~900 |
|---|---|
| County | Meagher County (county seat) |
| Region | Central Montana |
| Elevation | 5,200 ft |
| Distance to Great Falls | ~85 miles (~1.5 hours) |
| Distance to Helena | ~75 miles (~1.5 hours) |
| Distance to Lewistown | ~65 miles (~1 hour) |
| Best for | Hot springs, Smith River float, Showdown skiing, central Montana scenic drives |
What Makes White Sulphur Springs Different
The name explains it: the hot mineral springs here have drawn people for centuries — Native Americans called them “Wampum Waters,” believing in their healing properties.
The springs are still flowing. The Spa Hot Springs Motel draws and refills its pools daily with untreated spring water, which means the mineral content and temperature vary naturally — an increasingly rare experience in an era of chlorinated “hot spring” resorts.
The Smith River adds a different layer of extraordinary. Below White Sulphur Springs, the river cuts a 60-mile canyon through the Belt Mountains, accessible only by water for most of its length.
The NPS-style permit lottery system (run by Montana FWP) limits access to 59 float groups per year. This exclusivity has preserved the river in extraordinary condition — one of the finest wilderness float experiences in the Mountain West.
For broader trip context, see my Montana cities and towns hub.
The Top 10 Things to Do in White Sulphur Springs
1. Soak at Spa Hot Springs
The centerpiece of any White Sulphur Springs visit. Three pools at different temperatures (ranging from warm to hot), filled with natural mineral water daily without chemical treatment. Day passes available — you don’t need to be a motel guest. Evening soaks under Montana stars are particularly memorable.
2. Float the Smith River (Permit Required)
The 59-mile Smith River float from Camp Baker to Eden Bridge is one of Montana’s most coveted outdoor experiences. The lottery opens in February; applications significantly exceed available permits. If you get a permit, the float takes 4–5 days through a remote canyon with good trout fishing and zero crowds. Contact Montana FWP at fwp.mt.gov for current lottery information.
3. Ski Showdown Ski Area (35 miles north on US-89)
Montana’s oldest operating ski area, open since 1936. Affordable lift tickets, 1,400 feet of vertical, and a genuinely old-school Montana ski mountain feel. The 8,600-foot summit offers panoramic views of the Little Belt, Castle, and Big Belt mountain ranges.
4. Kings Hill Scenic Byway
US-89 north from White Sulphur Springs through the Little Belt Mountains to Great Falls. The 71-mile byway passes Showdown Ski Area, Judith Peak, and dozens of forest roads accessing the Lewis and Clark National Forest.
5. The Castle Museum
A 23-room granite mansion built in 1892 by prominent businessman Byron Sherman. Now a community museum covering White Sulphur Springs history — the original Victorian furnishings are impressive for a town this size.
6. Red Ants Pants Music Festival (Late July)
A four-day music festival held annually on a ranch outside White Sulphur Springs in late July. Named for the workwear brand founded here, the festival has grown into one of Montana’s signature summer music events with nationally recognized acts, camping, and genuine Montana ranch atmosphere.
7. Fly Fish the Smith River (Day Access)
Below the permit float section, portions of the Smith River are accessible for day fishing. The upper river above Camp Baker is also fishable. Brown and rainbow trout in classic central Montana freestone water.
8. Hike in Lewis and Clark National Forest
Multiple trailheads access the Little Belt Mountains from the Kings Hill Byway above White Sulphur Springs. Judith Peak (8,000+ ft) is the highest point, accessible via forest roads and trails.
9. Barn Quilt Trail
A regional trail connecting hand-painted quilt patterns on barns throughout Meagher County — a self-guided scenic drive through ranch country.
10. Arrowhead Meadows Golf Course
A nine-hole public course with views of surrounding mountain ranges. One of the more scenic small-town golf courses in central Montana.
Where to Stay
| Hotel | Vibe | Price | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spa Hot Springs Motel | Historic, spring access | $90–160 | Hot spring focus |
| Tenderfoot Cabins | Cabins adjacent to springs | $110–180 | Couples, character |
| Edith Motel | Basic motel | $80–120 | Budget |
| Camping / Airbnb options | Various | $60–150 | Flexible travelers |
Where to Eat
- The Jawbone — best dinner in WSS; steakhouse atmosphere
- Bar 47 — pub fare, trivia nights, welcoming atmosphere
- Wild Oats Bakery — breakfast and pastries
- Bob & Kelli’s Cafe — hearty diner classics
Getting There
From Helena: 75 miles east on US-12/US-89, about 1.5 hours.
From Great Falls: 85 miles south on US-89, about 1.5 hours.
From Bozeman: ~125 miles via US-89, about 2 hours.
What White Sulphur Springs Unlocks
Showdown Ski Area (35 min north)
Montana’s oldest ski area.
Kings Hill Scenic Byway
71 miles of Little Belt Mountain scenery.
Helena (1.5 hours)
State capital, Last Chance Gulch, Gates of the Mountains. See Helena guide.
Great Falls (1.5 hours)
C.M. Russell Museum, Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center. See Great Falls guide.
When to Visit
July — Red Ants Pants Music Festival (late July) is the cultural highlight.
Winter (December–March) — Showdown Ski Area season; Spa Hot Springs is excellent in cold weather.
Year-round for hot springs — The pools are open every day of the year.
February — Apply for the Smith River float lottery.
Personal Tips
Apply for the Smith River lottery in February. Set a calendar reminder. The 59 permits for summer floats are among the most competitive in Montana recreation.
Evening soaks at Spa Hot Springs are the move. After a day on the Kings Hill Byway or fishing, soaking in 100°F mineral water under a clear Montana sky is one of the genuinely restorative experiences in the state.
Red Ants Pants Festival books out. If you plan to attend, buy tickets and camping spots early.
Showdown is a legitimate ski area. It’s not a bunny hill — 1,400 feet of vertical and terrain for all levels. It just doesn’t have the marketing budget of Whitefish or Big Sky.
White Sulphur Springs Quick Facts
| Founded | 1866 (hot springs settlement) |
|---|---|
| Smith River permits | 59 per season (lottery only) |
| Showdown Ski Area | Montana’s oldest (1936) |
| Average summer high | 80°F |
| Average winter low | 5°F |
Conclusion
White Sulphur Springs earns its place on any central Montana itinerary through the combination of the Spa Hot Springs, the legendary Smith River, and the Kings Hill Scenic Byway. It’s not a tourist town — it’s a working ranch community with mineral springs, a ski area, and one of the most exclusive river floats in the Mountain West. That combination is rarer than it sounds.
Have a White Sulphur Springs question? Drop it in the comments — I read every one.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is White Sulphur Springs Montana worth visiting?
Yes — White Sulphur Springs is worth visiting for the Spa Hot Springs (natural mineral pools, daily refreshed, open year-round), access to the Smith River permit float (one of Montana’s most coveted outdoor experiences), Showdown Ski Area (Montana’s oldest, 35 miles north), and the Kings Hill Scenic Byway. The Red Ants Pants Music Festival in late July is a significant regional event.
What is the Smith River float near White Sulphur Springs?
The Smith River float is a 59-mile canoe or raft trip from Camp Baker to Eden Bridge through a remote canyon below White Sulphur Springs. Access is controlled by a Montana FWP permit lottery — only 59 float groups are permitted per summer season, with thousands of applicants. The lottery opens in February. The 4–5 day float through a pristine limestone canyon with excellent trout fishing is considered one of the finest wilderness float experiences in the Mountain West.
What are the Spa Hot Springs in White Sulphur Springs?
The Spa Hot Springs Motel features natural mineral hot spring pools that are drained and refilled daily with untreated spring water — no chlorine or other chemicals added. The springs have been in use since the 1860s. Both indoor and outdoor pools are available at varying temperatures. Day passes are available without staying at the motel.
How do you apply for the Smith River float lottery?
The Smith River float lottery is administered by Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks (fwp.mt.gov). Applications are accepted each February for the following summer season. The number of applications significantly exceeds the 59 available permits. Unsuccessful applicants receive a partial application fee refund.
What is Showdown Ski Area near White Sulphur Springs?
Showdown Ski Area in the Little Belt Mountains, 35 miles north of White Sulphur Springs, is Montana’s oldest operating ski area — open since 1936. The mountain has 1,400 feet of vertical with beginner, intermediate, and advanced terrain, plus a summit elevation of approximately 8,600 feet. Lift tickets are significantly cheaper than destination resorts like Whitefish or Big Sky.
